Then remove the injection pump. This is done by removing the Air Cleaner and Throttle Cable Bracket, then loosening all 8 injector lines from their respective nozzles. Then, using a Crows Foot wrench, loosen and remove the 90 degree fuel inlet adapter from the end of the pump. Remove the 3 bolts holding the pump to the pump gear housing, and pull the pump toward the air intake. Be sure to scribe a line between the pump and the housing so you can keep your timing adjusted!
Remove the intake manifold by slowly loosening the attaching bolts a little at a time until all are loose. Note that this part requires a torque sequence to apply, so it makes sense to un-torque it accordingly. Once all the bolts are removed two are shorter than the others and are at opposite corners , gently pop the manifold off the engine.
No telling how long they had been there! The Valley Pan is secured in the front by a steel V shaped piece of plate steel. Water that falls on the engine is drained from the Valley Pan through this nut.
The front and rear edges of the Valley Pan are sealed to the block with Silicone. My replacement pan came with special sealant and very specific instructions on how to apply it. Be sure to use a new Valley Pan, and follow the instructions that come with it when you re-assemble.
Note that in the photo below, that the front retaining strap and bolts have been removed and are lying on the pan.
The left and right Valve Covers come off next. Mine were originally held on with large Phillips type bolts. I replaced these with stainless hex head bolts some years ago. Remove whatever type you have, and wiggle the Valve Covers off. Next, build yourself something to keep your Push Rods and Rocker Arms organized in.
It is important to keep the orientation and order of these parts exactly as they come out. You do not want to install a Push Rod upside down, or use them with the wrong cylinder, or Rocker Arms.
Imagine each piece as being unique and treat them as such. Note: The manuals seem to indicate that you should put the crankshaft in a particular position to install these things, so it would make sense to have it that way when you remove them.
If you want to obey this instruction, then make sure you set the engine up that way earlier. You might be able to rotate it still, but I feel once the timing gear for the pump is no longer on the pump, that turning the crank is not what I want to do.
Remove the bolts holding the Rocker Arms down, and lift each pair off the head with its bracket and bolts as an assembly. Do not separate these items.
Keep them clean for re-installation with their oily covering unchanged. The lubrication that they wear will help protect them when you re-start.
Once all of the rockers and push rods are out, things get more serious. Head Removal:. At this point, your engine should be drained, stripped, and almost ready to take off the heads.
There are only two things you should do first. It is not necessary to remove the exhaust manifolds from the heads at any time. The second thing, is to remove the dipstick tube. I remember wrestling with the dipstick tube for 2 hours the first time I did the right head.
The dipstick tube is press-fit into the block. I can offer no sure-proof way to remove it. I eventually got mine out by putting the tube through the hole in the handle of a crescent wrench, and prying against the exhaust manifold. You will need to plan on installing a new one.
A note about draining the block: Unless you remove the block drains, you will not be able to get all of the water out. I was afraid to mess with those things, so I used a shop-vac to suck as much coolant out of the thermostat housing as I could.
This worked pretty well since when I removed the passenger side head, the small amount of coolant that did spring forth, did not go into the cylinders.
I then used the shop-vac again to suck water out of the rear block coolant passages. There are 18 head bolts per head. Loosen them slowly following the torque sequence in the manual.
Remove all the bolts and washers that you can. Those in the rear that will not come out due to the firewall, or heater core housing will need to stay in the head until the head is removed. Make note as to which bolts these are, since you will need them to be in the head when you re-install. I would work on removing only one head at a time.
After you have removed all the bolts, rig a hoist to lift the head from the engine. But first, a story. I was a lot younger then. The first time I changed my passenger side head gasket, it still leaked when I was all done. I ended up taking it to the Ford dealer to let them re-do it. This was my fear that I might fail again this time. However, I took my time, had better tools, and knowledge to use, and am glad to say I was successful. Having done the job both ways, I would never try it again without a hoist.
Rig the head for removal as shown in the picture. Remember that the head has two alignment dowels in the form of two metal sleeves that sit in some oil passages between the block and head.
The heads cannot be lifted straight up. I accomplished this by lifting with the hoist, until the motor and truck started to move. The head then popped free. Note that the alignment dowels may stay with the head or block. You will want to capture them and set them aside. Professionals have a fancy leather bag to do this. Note that the alignment dowel came out with the head. That was followed up with a second non-turbo engine, the 7. As stated above both of these engines were not considered powerful alternative offerings from Ford, but mainly for gas saving.
Banks Power saw these diesel engines as something different: a powerplant that could not only rival the power of the big V8s… but something that could even be more fuel-efficient than what was thought.
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